About the Mortadella & Pistachio al taglio
History
Pizza al taglio, or pizza by the cut, emerged in Rome during the mid-20th century as a street food sold by weight from large rectangular pans. The style is often credited to bakeries in the Testaccio and Trastevere neighborhoods, where bakers stretched high-hydration dough into sheet pans for efficient production and portability. Unlike Neapolitan pizza, al taglio was designed to be eaten on the go, with a sturdy yet airy crumb that holds toppings without collapsing. The mortadella and pistachio combination is a more recent innovation, reflecting contemporary Italian tastes for pairing cured meats with nuts, though its exact origin remains undocumented.
Technique
This dough uses 80% hydration, which creates the open, irregular crumb structure characteristic of Roman al taglio. The blend of bread flour and 00 flour provides both strength and extensibility, allowing the dough to stretch thin without tearing. A long, cold fermentation is typical for this style, developing flavor and making the dough easier to handle despite its wetness. The high baking temperature of 550F on a stone ensures a crisp bottom crust while the interior remains light and chewy. The minimal yeast percentage suggests a slow rise, often 24 to 48 hours, which is essential for proper gluten development and digestibility.
Ingredient notes
Fior di latte, a cow's milk mozzarella, is chosen over buffalo mozzarella for its lower moisture content and milder flavor, which prevents the crust from becoming soggy. Cubing and draining the cheese further reduces excess liquid. Mortadella, a finely ground pork sausage from Bologna studded with fat and sometimes pistachios, adds richness without overwhelming the pie. Sicilian pistachios, particularly those from Bronte, are prized for their intense flavor and deep green color. The finishing olive oil, applied after baking, adds fruity notes and a glossy appearance. The pan oil ensures the bottom crust crisps and releases cleanly from the surface.
Variations
Some versions add a base layer of stracchino or ricotta before baking, which melts into a creamy foundation beneath the mortadella. In certain Roman pizzerias, the mortadella is added after baking to preserve its delicate texture and prevent it from drying out. A variation popular in northern Italy includes a drizzle of pistachio cream or pesto instead of crushed nuts. Occasionally, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino is scattered over the finished pizza for added sharpness. The ratio of mortadella to pistachio can vary widely depending on regional preferences and the baker's interpretation of balance between meat and nut.
When to serve & pairings
This pizza pairs well with crisp white wines such as Verdicchio or Falanghina, which cut through the richness of the mortadella without overpowering the pistachios. A light lager or pilsner also works, offering refreshment and carbonation to cleanse the palate. It is suitable for lunch or an early dinner, often served alongside a simple green salad dressed with lemon and olive oil. In Rome, al taglio is commonly eaten as a midday snack or a casual meal on the move. The combination of protein and fat makes it satisfying enough to stand alone, though it can be part of a larger spread with other al taglio varieties.