About the NY Sicilian Square (L&B-style)
History
The Sicilian square pizza in New York is often credited to L&B Spumoni Gardens in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, which has been serving its upside-down version since 1939. The Barbati family developed a style that places mozzarella directly on the dough before adding sauce on top, a reversal of the traditional order. This approach became deeply associated with the neighborhood's Italian-American community and spread throughout Brooklyn and beyond. While grandma-style and other square pizzas existed, the L&B method created a distinct subcategory within New York's Sicilian pizza landscape, influencing pizzerias across the region.
Technique
This dough uses 70% hydration with bread flour, producing a structure that supports the thick, airy crumb characteristic of the style. The 0.4% yeast and cold fermentation allow for slow flavor development and an open interior texture. Baking at 525°F on a deck for 18 minutes creates a crisp, golden bottom while the high heat sets the cheese before the sauce. The olive oil in both the dough and pan contributes to frying the bottom crust, yielding the signature crunch. Stretching into a well-oiled pan and allowing a final proof ensures the dough rises properly before baking.
Ingredient notes
Bread flour provides the protein needed for structure in a thick-crust pizza, supporting the weight of toppings and creating chew. Low-moisture mozzarella goes on first, forming a protective layer that prevents the dough from becoming soggy. The lightly cooked, salted crushed tomato is applied after baking or in the final minutes, preserving its fresh, bright flavor. Pecorino Romano adds sharpness that cuts through the richness of cheese and oil. Fine sea salt at 2.2% seasons the dough throughout, while olive oil in the pan and dough contributes flavor and aids in achieving a fried, crispy base.
Variations
Traditional Sicilian squares in New York typically place sauce under the cheese, unlike the L&B upside-down method. Some pizzerias add the sauce halfway through baking rather than on top of the finished pie. Grandma-style pizza uses a thinner dough and often includes garlic and fresh basil, baked in a home-style sheet pan. Certain variations incorporate anchovies, onions, or breadcrumbs for texture. The spiciness level and oregano quantity can vary by pizzeria, with some omitting herbs entirely to let the tomato and cheese speak for themselves.
When to serve & pairings
This pizza pairs well with light, crisp lagers or pilsners that cut through the richness of the cheese and oil. Italian sodas or sparkling water with lemon provide a refreshing contrast. It works as a centerpiece for casual gatherings or weekend lunches, often served alongside simple green salads dressed with vinegar to balance the heaviness. Garlic knots or fried zucchini are common side options in pizzerias. The substantial nature of the square makes it suitable for feeding groups, with its sturdy structure allowing slices to be eaten by hand or with a fork.